Tuning

ADVi3 includes tools to help you tune soma aspects of your printer.

Extruder Tuning

In general, you only have to do this once because this parameter do not change with time. It is related to the mechanics of your printer. If you change the gear of your extruder, you have to perform this tuning.

The maths are the following:

E axis

  • The motors moves 1.8 ° per steps
  • So a revolution has 360 / 1.8 = 200 steps
  • The driver gives 16 micro-steps
  • Let’s assume the gear has a diameter of 10.95 mm
  • So we have: (200 * 16) / (10.95 * π ) = 93 steps / mm.

PID Tuning

In general, you only have to do this once except if you change radically your extruding temperature or if your environmental conditions change, such as humidity, or if you change the insulation on the heater block, such as switching to a silicone sock.

XYZ motors Tuning

Note: This part has been removed in version 4.0. Short explanation: because it was wrong and useless. Long version:

The maths are the following:

X and Y axis

  • The motors moves 1.8 ° per steps
  • So a revolution has 360 / 1.8 = 200 steps
  • The driver gives 16 micro-steps
  • On X and Y axis, the toothed pulleys have 20 teeths
  • The belts have a 2 mm tooth pitch
  • So we have: (200 * 16) / (20 x 2) = 80 steps / mm

Z axis

  • The motors moves 1.8 ° per steps
  • The lead screw is 8 mm per revolution
  • So we have: (200 * 16) / 8 = 400 steps / mm

Manual leveling

You only have to do this if you do not have a sensor (such as BLTouch).

You have to do this frequently (almost before each print) and it is sometimes difficult to level all the points if your bed or other parts, such as linear rods, are bent.

Sensor Z-height

You only have to do this if you have a sensor (such as BLTouch).

You only have to do this from time to time especially if you move or disassemble parts such as the extruder.

Sensor Bed Leveling

You only have to do this if you have a sensor, such as the BLTouch. You can also do this, without displaying the grid, using the G29 command either from a G-code start script or manual command.

Reset Settings

If you reset settings, you will have to either perform the tunings again or reenter each of the settings.

Flashing of new firmware version

If you flash a new firmware (especially a major version number), you may loose your settings and you have to either perform again the tunings or reenter the different settings.

Thanks for your hard work. I was able to reassemble my machine and have it up and printing after eight months over a weekend thanks to you.

  • I’m trying to tune my hot-end, but it fails every time; what causes PID tuning to fail?

I’d check your thermistor (and it’s wires) especially if you have a glass bead type. Make sure it’s properly seated and clamped down. I replaced mine with a screw-in type to replace it that seems more durable and far less prone to placement issues. I got this one, and it’s been very accurate and reliable: https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Thermistor-Duplicator-Printers/dp/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=thermister+i3+screw&qid=1561432688&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Also may want to consider looking at your heater, and if it’s clamped in well to your heater block. If the heat isn’t being transferred well, then it’s not going to respond quick enough to the commands to cycle it. I’ve heard some that use thermal paste on it before they clamp it.

Thanks, Nuramori, I’m running a bowden-driven E3D V6 hot end & thermistor, I’ll double check the tension on that and the heater once this test print is done.