BLTouch Z height in relation to nozzle

I printed the BLTouch bracket that goes on the left side and is adjustable. Problem is I don’t know what to adjust it to. The nozzle I assume but how do I measure the distance between the nozzle tip and the Z probe…deployed or stowed? I set it according to the directions on the screen…-1.76…but it never returns there to check accuracy. I can’t seem to find the solution. Is there a video? I have an eye disease that hinders me from reading a long time. Thanks for any help. I am using 4.0.6 on a Maker Select Plus.

Which one exactly? Why not the supports I recommended in the User Manual?

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2976345 The bracket had your name attached to it…that is why I printed that one. I hadn’t joined this site when I printed it…now I see the center mounted one. I haven’t tried to print it because I don’t think it will work.

Don’t think the printer will print in it’s present state I mean.

Teaching Tech L. Side

This is published by someone else, not by me. I do not recommend such adjustable supports because with time, the nuts will become loose and your nozzle will hit the bed. It is also not easy to adjust correctly.

I recommend to strictly follow the User Manual. Avoid following instructions you can find with Google. Most of the time, they are for an old versions of ADVi3++.

To print the support, you have to remove the BLTouch and use the version without BLTouch of ADVi3++. Do not forget to re-attach the Z-endstop.

It seems to print well now. I have another question…under /Tuning/Extruder tuning it says to measure the distance between the extruder and your mark and enter the value. This isn’t clear to me at all…could you please explain or show me where it is elsewhere? Thanks.

Have you read the User Manual?

Do you you need more than these screenshots?

I am beginning to feel a bit thick. I cannot find this picture or directions in the user’s manual. I have looked under practically all the categories. It isn’t under tuning where I thought it would be…that’s why I asked the question. Where is it? I can do it if I can find how. I apologize for for being a distraction. I can see the 120mm mark and the 25mm mark but what I don’t know is what the extruder is doing to create that measurement. Thanks.

I am using Octoprint

Never mind…I found it on the machine. Thanks for now!

I printed a job. The nozzle fan never came on and the print is sagging. I tried M106 from Octoprint to no avail. There is a fan setting on the printer but it is set to 0. I unplugged the fan and tested it with a power supply so I know it is good. Again…I have read the users manual but can’t find what you can. Sorry. Also the default settings are different than the default…did the printer change these during tuning? Or should they be the default?

The printer settings may have been changed by some tuning gcode. I had some issues with teaching tech gcode tuning files, they reset my acceleration and jerk settings to something rediculous. I got nothing but crap prints after that test.

Be sure you power cycle the printer to reload the eeprom. If the settings are still off, there is a “factory reset” in the ADVi3++ firmware. Otherwise you can send gcode commands via octoprint to change the settings you want to change.

I would recommend writing your settings down (or take pics with a phone) before you blow them away. That way you don’t necessarily have to do filament tuning again.

Regarding the fan, no. Regarding other settings, yes like the E steps.

It could help if you post your starting g-code here.

I think I should have just left the original firmware alone…now my understanding is that I can’t flash the original firmware again. I am more interested in the product than the process…I simply don’t know what I am doing even though I worked in the computer business for many years administering networks. I just copied the example starting gcode but I don’t know where to put it…Cura or Octoprint. I tried it in both and the extruder slammed into the build bed creating an error. Certainly not your fault…my eyes are bad and these pages are very hard for me to read…beyond my lack of nuts and bolts knowledge of 3D printers which apparently is a requirement. Now the fan isn’t working and my prints look partially melted and warped.

It is a little difficult to follow you because you mention different things. Is your only problem the fan or do you also have problem with your z-endstop or your BLTouch? I do not even know which printer you have…

You are in the IT business so you know that users just saying “it does not work” do not help much. So please, explain exactly which setup ou have, which problem(s) you have and post your starting g-code. Or you can also post the g-code of one of your print.

Which pages? What is the problem exactly?

G21 ; metric values
G90 ; absolute positioning
M82 ; set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ; start with the fan off
M140 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; Set bed temperature (no wait)
G28 X Y F6000 ; move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z F1200 ; move Z to min endstops ; raise the nozzle
G28 X Y F6000 ; move X/Y to min endstops
M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} ; wait for bed temperature to reach target
M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; set extruder temperature (no wait)
G29 ; auto-leveling
G28 X Y F6000 ; move X/Y to min endstops, may disable bed leveling
M420 S1 ; enable bed leveling compensation
M109 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} T0 ; set extruder temperature and wait
M300 P200 ; beep to indicate that the temp is reached
G1 Z15 F1200 ; raise to have room
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
G1 F140 E30 ; extrude 3mm of feed stock
G4 S2 ; Wait for 2 seconds
G92 E0 ; zero the extruded length
M117 Printing from Cura…; message

I copied this as an example from /Starting and Ending G-Code with BLTouch for Cura. I disconnected Octoprint and loaded the gcode from Cura via SD. It is printing though it dropped some filament while heating.
I know well what you mean when clients say “It’s broke” or whatever…that why I have apologized. I can’t speak in any knowledgeable context about this subject.
I think the fan is the thing to get working if it isn’t a hardware issue. When it was connected to Octoprint I send a M106…the fan should have started right? It replied with OK. I printed a Cooliii fixture and connect a 24v radial fan. The fan is good. Does the failed M106 mean a hardware problem? Thanks for your help.
I have a Maker Select Plus about two years old. I do have a Laser Cutter as well as a CNC machine…so I am familiar with how they operate but not in depth.
The pages are grey and the text a lighter shade of grey…not enough contrast for my eyes. I can, of course make it larger, but that presents other problems in navigation. I have cataracts in both eyes as well as Asteroid Hyalosis…I am sure everyone else can read the pages fine. Surely you would have had complaints before now. If I could make a suggestion…videos…show and tell is the best form of communication…has the highest retention rate. Thanks again.

Yes.

Sorry, I can’t do anything to fix that.

you are the first one. I am using the regular dark Discourse template. Without any customization.

Take too much time and when people ask questions, I can’t say to them: look at the video. It is not viable.

So I suggest that you check the wiring of the fan, including the big flat cable between the interface board and the mainboard. Such problem is often due to a bad connection.

This is wrong. You can flash the firmware from Wanhao. I don’t understand why you are saying this.

So sorry you have these vision problems. I have an in-law who is going blind due to degeneration. I’m very aware of how challenging it is when applications don’t build for accessibility. I would recommend trying a screen reader, windows has a built in text-to-speech you can access with “Win+ctrl+enter”. You can google windows 10 screen reader for more info.

Your other option is to change the profile for yourself. If you click on your “L” in the top right you can then access “Preferences”. On the left there is a selection for “Interface”. Change the Theme from “Grey Amber” to “Light”. That should improve the contrast for you.

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